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Groom Style Advice – How Should A Suit Fit?

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Men tend to believe that as long as he shows up in a suit on his wedding day, everything would be fine. Then again, it’s not just the brides who are show-stunners during a wedding. Grooms, you should play your part to look equally va-va-voom! Look spectacular on your big day without people thinking you reused an office suit. Remember: it’s all in the details.

For starters, the modern groom doesn’t have to stick to a black suit anymore. Check out these celebrity grooms to see how they rocked their suits.

la belle couture wedding gown wedding dress singapore suit rental

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la belle couture wedding gown wedding dress singapore suit rental

Image from Google

The thing about suit rentals is that there will always be limitations on the fit as the cutting for mens’ suits are usually a standard cut. Thus for a suit to fit the body proportions perfectly, especially if the groom is a body builder or might have a slightly lanky built, custom made suits are always recommended. Nonetheless, here are 10 pointers to help you find a fit as close to perfect as possible to ensure you pay less for alterations, but still look great and get exactly what you want.

 

How to choose the right fit:

1. Make sure the jacket fits in the shoulders. It shouldn’t be too large, neither should it be too tight. If you’re intending to get the shoulders adjusted by a tailor, you might as well consider getting a tailored suit.

shoulder fit

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

2. Material shouldn’t be sitting out around the neck area. It shouldn’t sit back from your shirt collar, neither should it bunch around the neck. Your jacket collar should rest against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest at the back of your neck. All of these should touch lightly without significant gaps in between.

jacket collar

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

3. The maximum leeway for your chest and torso area would be an inch to an inch and a half at most. Any looser or tighter than that and you’d start dealing with proportion issues in the lines of the jacket.

jacket closure

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

4. Jacket length. With your hands down by your shoulders, you should feel the length where your thumb knuckle is. Otherwise you should be able to feel the bottom of the jacket when you wring your hands around the bottom.

Ideally, the jacket should cover the back curvature of your buttocks. Of course, the trend now is for jackets to be a little shorter. However whatever you choose, always remember proportions!

jacket length

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

5. Sleeve lengths might be the easiest to adjust, considering how much material is available inside. Nonetheless the old-fashioned guideline would be “a half-inch of linen”, which means that about half an inch of the shirt cuff should be visible beyond the jacket cuff.

What you need to be sure of is that your jacket sleeve does not rise above your shirt sleeve entirely – the seam where the shirt cuff connects with the shirt sleeve should never be seen. Similarly, the jacket sleeve should not cover the shirt entirely.

jacket sleeve

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

6. Trousers and seat. A good fit in the seat will lie loosely against your underwear, without pulling tight your buttocks or draping loosely down your thighs. A bad fit would mean horizontal wrinkles (cause by too tight a fit) or loose, U-shape sags on the back of the thighs (caused by too loose a fit).

seat fit

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

7. Trousers break. Unless you’re looking to show off your ankles, an ideal “break” is the small wrinkle cause when the top of your shoes stops the trouser cuff from falling to its full length. It’s a small, subtle feature and one horizontal dimple or crease is enough.

It should rest nicely on the top of your shoe and not more. The trousers can fall a touch longer at the back than the front, as long as it’s still above the heel of the shoe, you’re good to go.

trouser break

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

8. Shoulder divots, otherwise also known as shoulder paddings. If the sleeve of the jacket seems to dip in slightly then flare out again, the shoulders are too big. What you see would be the shoulder padding protruding beyond your arm, and the cloth of sleeve tucked under.

shoulder divot

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

On the other hand, if you notice bunching on the top of your shoulder, rather than the upper sleeve, the jacket might be too large in the shoulders and does not fit your shoulder type. If that’s the case, consider a slimmer fit or smaller size.

shoulder rumpling

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

9. Sleeve pitch. The sleeves of the jacket should fall smooth and straight when your arms are resting in their natural stance. If you see spiraling wrinkles, it could mean that you natural stance doesn’t match the angle that the sleeve was constructed with.

sleeve pitch

Image from Realmenrealstyle

 

10. When you button up your suit at the front and it’s too tight, you get “the dreaded X” right in the center.

dreaded x

Image from Realmenrealstyle

When you’re wearing a suit and standing, you should have the jacket buttoned. Here’s a quick read on the “Sometimes, Always, Never 3-button rule”.

Close one button of a single-breasted jacket when testing a fit. You’re looking to see if the two sides fit nicely without the lapels hanging forward off your chest (too loose) or the lower edge flaring out like a skirt (too tight). The button should close without strain and there should be no wrinkles radiating around the closure.

 

Now we move on to the details. With formal suiting, it’s all in the details. Instead of the “four-in-hand knot”, consider other options to style your suit.

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Pair it up and play around! The bride is not the only one who should pick accessories. You should too!

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Image from Realmenrealstyle

Remember, a suit is not just a suit. There are many ways to play up your wedding suit.

One last thing to keep in mind is that the jacket styling is usually where much of the suit’s personality comes through. So be sure to get a good fit and accessories to match!

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